Are you looking for a quick and easy pudding, which takes minutes to prepare that you can probably make from what you've already got? Then you might have found your recipe This delicious apple tart is a firm family favourite. The recipe evolved over years of evenings where I had failed to plan a pudding, but there was a distinct vibe that a pudding was required and so I felt guilted into making one up from whatever lurks in the cupboard and the fridge. I almost always have these five ingredients lolling around, so this is what I came up with, and it works! The proof is in the fact that in a house of three children there are almost never any left overs for anyone to take for packed lunch the next day; but this is equally good served cold and is great for packed lunches!

All you need is:
Two large apples, one lemon, one pack of puff pastry, a bit of lemon curd, demerara sugar.

Take one 375g pack of puff pastry and roll it out to fit a greased baking sheet with a slight lip approx 25 x 15cm. Spread two tablespoons of lemon curd over the base quite thinly. Make sure the pastry goes up the sides to create a lip. This stops the lemon curd running over the sides.

Get your apple prep kit together.

Core the apples

Don't peel them. Slice 'em thinly and squeeze the lemon juice over them. If you've got lots of pips you might want to use a tea strainer.

Arrange the apple slices slightly overlapping on top of the lemon curd pastry base.

Bake in a preheated oven at 190/200 degrees for 20/25 minutes.

Cut into slices. Serve warm with ice cream.

I designed these lovely textured cushions to go with my new sofas. I wanted to create a depth of texture and a mock checkered look to co-ordinate with the faint checks of the tweedy sofa fabric. The cushion is named after our cat, as she thinks we ordered the sofas for her special use!

Materials
3 x 100g balls Libby Summers Chunky (photographed in shade 100 Elderflower Cream and 011 Apple Blossom)
Pair 8mm needles
7 buttons (1.5cm width)
Darning needle for sewing up
30cm [12 in] x 40cm [16 in] cushion pad

Tension
12 sts and 13 rows to 10cm [4in] measured over stocking stitch

Finished measurements
The cushion pad measures 30cm [12 in] x 40cm [16 in] when sewn up and buttoned up.

Abbreviations
k = knit
p = purl
st = stitch
sts = stitches
yf = yarn forward
sl 2 = slip 2 sts from left hand to right hand needle without knitting them
yb = yarn back
RS = right side
WS = wrong side
RH = right hand
LH = left hand
st st = stocking stitch (knit on right side rows, purl on wrong side rows)

Notes
*When you slip 2, you are carrying yarn across the front of work on the RS and back of work on the WS. Make sure you don't pull this too tight. The tension of the carried yarn should be roughly equivalent to 2 knitted stitches. It will naturally pull in slightly, so don't worry about this, but just make sure you don't bunch up your stitches on your needle when working so that it doesn't pull in too much.

**cast off 1 st = knit 2 sts, pass first st over 2nd st

Front
Cast on 52 sts.

Work in waffle stitch pattern as follows:

Row 1: K.
Row 2: P.
Row 3: (K1, yf, sl 2*, yb) rep to last st, k1.
Row 4: (P1, yp, sl 2*, yf, p1) rep to last st, p1.

Repeat last 4 rows 16 times more and Rows 1 and 2 again. (70 rows altogether).

Cast off on RS knitwise.

Pick up and knit 37 sts evenly along LH edge. Knit 15 rows.

Next Row: K3, cast off 1 st**, (k until 4 sts on RH needle, cast off 1 st) rep to last 2 sts, k2. (makes 7 buttonholes)
Next Row: K3, cast on 1 st**, (k4, cast on 1 st) rep until last 3 sts, k3.

Knit two rows. Cast off knitwise.

Pick up and knit 36 sts evenly along RH edge. Knit 9 rows. Cast off knitwise.

Back
Cast on 38 sts. Work in st st until work measures exactly 30cm [12in] ending with a RS row. Cast off knitwise.

Making Up
I prefer to use mattress stitch for sewing up, but you can also use back stitch. Mattress stitch is carried out with RS of work facing you and back stitch is done with WSs of work facing you.

As the tension of the front and back are different and so the number of cast on stitches for the centre sections of the front and back are different, you will find that for this section you need to sew up 1.5 stitches from the front to every 1 stitch for the back when sewing up the top and bottom of the cushion.

Sew RH side of front to RH side of back, matching up garter stitch sections. Sew cast on edge of front to cast on edge of back, matching up garter stitch sections. Sew  cast off edge of front to cast off edge of back, again matching up garter stitch section. Leave RH side open. Sew buttons in position on the back of cushion to correspond with buttonholes on LH side of front. You might find it helpful to mark the position with a pin before sewing them on to ensure they are evenly spaced.

This colourful cowl or neck warmer has rapidly become one of my favourites. As an avid knitter, yarn purveyor and knitwear designer, I do of course own a cowl in every colour for every occasion, but this cowl is just a great all-round performer in every category! The size of the cowl is a snug fit around the neck. To make a longer cowl work an extra pattern repeat. (You may need extra yarn).

Materials
3 x 50g balls Libby Summers Fine Aran in 660 Sailor's Blue
1 x 50g ball Libby Summers Fine Aran in 101 Coastal Cream
1 x 25g ball Libby Summers Fine Aran in 862 Sea Jewel
1 x 25g ball Libby Summers Fine Aran in 829 Emerald
1 x 25g ball Libby Summers Fine Aran110 Sea Spray
1 x 25g ball Libby Summers Fine Aran in 890 Sunset Sky
1 x 25g ball Libby Summers Fine Aran in 760 Coral
1 x 25g ball Libby Summers Fine Aran in 874 Vintage Green 
1 x 25g ball Libby Summers Fine Aran in 730 Wild Heather
1 x 25g ball Libby Summers Fine Aran in 108 Applemint
Pair 4.5mm needles
Darning needle

Tension
19 stitches and 20 rows to 10cm [4in].

Finished Measurements 
(NB. taken after blocking and sewing up so does not exactly match stated tension)
35cm wide and 60cm diameter
​Laid Flat
35cm wide and 30cm high

To Fit
Average Adult

Instructions

Front
Cast on 173 stitches in 862 Sea Jewel. Working in stocking stitch throughout, repeat Chart pattern across row, starting and ending with the first 3 stitches of the Chart pattern on each row. (When working a purl row, remember to start with stitch no. 3 and work from left to right. When working a knit row, start with stitch no. 1 and work from right to left). Work 4 Chart repeats in all (132 rows). Cast off on RS in 862 Sea Jewel. Use the stranded technique for changing colour on the 3rd and every following 3rd row, taking care not to pull yarn too tight across back of work. Cut yarn after each block of colour and rejoin next time you work that stripe. Don't try and carry yarns up the side of work as there are two many rows between the colour repeats.

Back
Cast on 173 stitches in 660 Sailor's Blue. Working in stocking stitch throughout, work 132 rows. Cast off on RS using 660 Sailor's Blue.

Making up
Sew in ends from colourwork. Block each piece separately, or lightly press under a clean damp tea towel. Sew cast on edge to cast off edge for each piece using mattress stitch. Then sew back to front along sides using mattress stitch. 

1 I have wanted to design a jumper for men for a long time. In 2014 I managed a tank top for my book Anyone Can Knit, but this is the only design I have specifically done for men to date. So I am delighted to at last launch my next men's design - the James Sweater in Libby Summers Fine Aran. It is so called after my very talented hairdresser, James, who was the recipient of the first prototype, photographed in the navy version (Sailor's Blue 660). I made one or two adaptations to the design since, primarily around the raglan sleeve. Those of you with an eagle eye will notice that the green and brown versions (Vintage Green 874 and Driftwood 109) have a more pronounced rib section on the raglan sleeves. (I thought I would point this out before I have to field various queries or comments!) James' navy sweater is knitted in the Small size, Matthew's Vintage Green sweater is knitted in the Medium size and Oli's Driftwood Brown sweater is knitted in the Large size. So three out of the four sizes graded have been tested. Oli's sweater was knitted up by my fantastic test knitter, Debbie Bramham, who is also a whizz at maths, and her comments and editing have been invaluable in producing this pattern. I couldn't have done it without her input. It's been a real team effort!

The sweater is designed for comfort and style, as a wardrobe staple. It's a classic 'V' neck, but with stunning rib detailing up the sides, along the raglan and the neckband. It's a straightforward knit for an intermediate knitter. 

I have decided to offer this pattern as a free digital pattern, sent to you manually by email when you purchase at least 11 balls of Libby Summers Fine Aran. When you buy at least 11 balls of Fine Aran, please add a note in the box at checkout just saying 'James Sweater'. I will then email you the pattern. So that I can offer this pattern for free, I have not put it through the tech editing, graphic design and printing stages that my printedpatterns go through, so the digital PDF will be fairly basic. However, as three out of four of the sizes have been pattern tested (ie. knitted up) then I am fairly confident that the pattern is sound. Of course, if you encounter any rogue numbers or have any queries, please email me and I will respond.

To help you decide which size to knit and what materials you will need, I have listed the pattern information below.

Happy Knitting!

I am not a crocheter by nature or by training, but I do find crochet very soothing in a way that knitting is not for me. Because I can practically knit in my sleep I have to be doing something else while I’m knitting, either watching a film, listening to an engaging programme on the radio, or chatting to a member of my family. However, crochet requires my constant attention and focus and so is a more absorbing and mindful activity for me. I find the rhythmic and repetitive nature of the hooking process quite hypnotic, and it’s therefore one of the few activities that really make me ‘switch off’.

Being lucky enough to be surrounded by yarn of multiple colours, I have simply craved for a long time to make a granny squares blanket, using all the delicious ten colours from my Chunky range. But I have had to be patient to see this project finished, as it has taken me the best part of a year! This is because knitting calls on my time more urgently, more persuasively and more effectively (probably because I need to knit to generate income). However, I have made the most of snippets of time to crochet in between activities. One of the great things about crochet is that it is far more portable than knitting. My crochet hook and various balls of half used yarn came with me to Cornwall and Suffolk last summer, travelled with me on the train down to London, accompanied me on taxi runs for my children which required waiting time in the car. After repeating the squares numerous times, I could finish one in fifteen minutes, so it was a perfect occupation for those ten minute windows of time that inevitably crop up when you’ve been asked to pick someone up at 5pm and they don’t emerge until 5.15pm. Crochet has also therefore kept me calm and less likely to get irritable, as I am naturally a very impatient person and find it particularly irksome waiting for my children, as they seem to have little sense of the value of my time compared to theirs!

As I do not write crochet patterns, I am letting you have this one for free in the form of a series of three video tutorials (scroll to the bottom of this post), accompanied by a schematic chart for a colour scheme, a list of materials, and a few tips for completing your blanket. Of course, you can vary the colour combinations or schematic as you wish, but I thought I would let you know exactly what I did, so that if you like the results you can make your own. The videos are also up on my YouTube Channel.

As a special bonus for all you lovely crocheters out there reading this, I have put together some Granny Squares Blanket Yarn Packs of 10 x 100g balls, one of each ten Chunky colours, which you can buy here for only £64, saving 20% off the price of buying the yarn separately (normally £80 for 1kg). You will need two packs to complete the blanket (2kg in all!) but maybe you'll want to buy one pack at a time to spread the cost. I hope this helps someway towards getting your blanket started.

 Happy crocheting!

Materials
6.5mm crochet hook
Darning needle for sewing up
Each square uses approximately 15g of Libby Summers Chunky and to make a blanket you will make 96 squares.
3g of this is for the first round, 5g of this is for the second round and 7g of this is for the third round.
For the colour combination that I did, you will need the following 2 x 100g balls of each of the ten colours in the range

2 x 007 City Lights
2 x 100 Elderflower Cream
2 x 008 Alleyway Shadows
2 x 009 Evening Horizon
2 x 010 Congestion Red
2 x 011 Apple Blossom
2 x 661 Asphalt Grey
2 x 207 Stamford Stone
2 x 860 Clear Skies
2 x 434 Misty Day

Tension
Each square measures approximately 12cm wide and 12cm high

Finished Measurements
Approximately 144cm high x 96cm wide

Instructions

Follow the videos below to learn to make a granny square, if you don't know how. This particular design uses the treble stitch, but there are other ways of making granny squares using other stitches and other configurations. Follow the schematic below to get the same colour scheme as I used and to ensure you have enough yarn. By all means make up your own colour scheme, but bear in mind that you may need to purchase more yarn.

Making Up

I decided to sew my squares together using a simple overstitch in 434 Misty Day. You shouldn’t need to buy extra of your sewing up colour, as long as it’s not 007 City Lights or 100 Elderflower Cream, as these two colours are used the most in the blanket. You may choose to join your squares using a crochet stitch. This can tend to create a raised edges running vertically and horizontally through the blanket, which I don’t really like the look of, which is why I chose to sew it together. Its a matter of personal choice, however.

Materials
Oddments of red DK yarn (about 5g)
Oddments of black DK yarn (less than 5g)
Pair 4mm [US6] needles
Darning needle
Brooch back

Tension
Tension is not particularly important for this pattern. Follow the tension on your ball band.

Measurements
The finished poppy will measure approximately 6cm wide by 7cm high if you are following a standard tension.

Abbreviations
Kfb    knit into the front and back of the  stitch, thus making a stitch
Skpo    slip one stitch, knit one stitch, pass  slipped stitch over
P2tog    purl two stitches together, thus  decreasing by one stitch
K2tog    knit two stitches together, thus  decreasing by one stitch
P3tog    purl three stitches together, thus  decreasing by two stitches

Cast on 14 sts using red yarn. This is the outer edge of the petal.
Row 1 (RS): Kfb, k to last 2 sts, kfb, k1. 16 sts
Row 2 and 3: As Row 1. 20 sts
Row 4: Purl.
Row 5: K1, (skpo, k2) rep to last st, k1. 15 sts
Row 6: Purl.
Row 7: K1, (skpo, k1) rep to last 2 sts, skpo, 10 sts
Row 8: (P2tog) rep to end. 5 sts
Cast off. This is the inner edge of the petal.

Cast on 1 sts using black yarn.
Row 1 (RS): Kfb. 3 sts
Row 2: Purl.
Row 3: Kfb, kfb, k1. 5 sts
Row 4: Purl.
Row 5: Skpo, k1, k2tog. 3 sts
Row 6: P3tog.
Fasten off. Sew ends into back of circle, pulling in slightly to create a circular shape on the RS.

Overlap the two inner edges of the petals in the centre. Sew in place along cast off edge only. Take yarn through to back and fasten off. Place black circle on top of the petals right in the centre. Stitch in place around the edge of the  circle, concealing stitches underneath the circle. Take yarn through to back and fasten off. Sew brooch back in place on back of poppy. 

My newest design, the Milly Cardigan, has an unusual i-cord edging to the neckline. This is a really easy edging to work - much quicker than a standard rib neckline, and gives a neat, thin stylish edge. The sample used here is knitted in shade 890 Libby Summers Fine Aran. See my ravelry page for more details of this project.

Following on the theme from my last free pattern for a Beginner's Beanie, here is a beginner's Scarf, knitted in the lovely Libby Summers Fine Aran yarn. Although mainly garter stitch, the style is refined with a lovely selvedge and finished off with a rib top and bottom. Wide stripes create interest for the knitter and open up lots of options for different colourways. I hope you enjoy this pattern. If you have, please comment below and also visit my ravelry page to add your project. You can also buy 'no frills' kits for this scarf here on my website, comprising the yarn needed and a basic printout of the pattern below. This will save you 15% on the price of the yarn.

3 x 50g ball Libby Summers Fine Aran in Yarn A (shown in 101)
1 x 50g ball Libby Summers Fine Aran in Yarn B (shown in 760)
1 x 50g ball Libby Summers Fine Aran in Yarn C (shown in 829)
1 x 50g ball Libby Summers Fine Aran in Yarn D (shown in 110)
1 x 50g ball Libby Summers Fine Aran in Yarn E (shown in 109)
Pair 35cm long 5mm [US8] needles

The Scarf measures approximately 185cm [69in] long and 18cm [8in] wide

18 sts and 30 rows to 10cm [4in] measured over garter stitch.

Abbreviations

k = knit
p = purl
yf = yarn forward (or bring yarn to front of work)
sl 3p = slip three stitches, purlwise. (insert right hand needle into stitch, to transfer it from left hand needle to right hand needle. Do this in the same way you would insert the needle before purling a stitch)

NOTE: When changing colour during the garter stitch pattern, knit the first three stitches of the row in the old colour. This maintains the tubular edge. If you knit the first three stitches using your new colour it will break the continuity of the edging.

Cast on 37 sts using Yarn B
Work in rib pattern as follow:s
Row 1 (RS): (K1, p1) repeat to last st, k1.
Row 2: (P1, k1) repeat to last st, p1.
Repeat last 2 rows four times more (10 rows of rib altogether)
Change to Yarn A and work in garter stitch pattern with selvedge as follows:
*Row 1: K to last 3 sts, yf, sl 3p.
Row 2: Leaving yarn at back 3 sts in from edge, K to last 3 sts, yf, sl 3p. 
Repeat these 2 rows 30 times more (32 rows in altogether in this colour).**
Change to Yarn C and repeat from * to **.
Working in stripes of 32 rows, repeat pattern as follows:
Yarn A
Yarn D
Yarn A
Yarn E
Yarn A
Yarn B
Yarn A
Yarn C
Yarn A
Yarn D
Yarn A
Yarn E
Yarn A
Yarn B
Yarn A
Change to Yarn C and work 10 rows in rib pattern as given for first 10 rows of scarf.
Cast off in rib. Sew in the ends carefully so they are not visible.

© Libby Summers Ltd. Please do not sell this pattern, knit up for sale or use for any profit making activities. Thank you. For more details about the copyright on knitting patterns please click here.

I am about to embark on my third term of teaching knitting at Copthill School. At the end of last term, the group requested that I design a beanie pattern especially for them. They were all very keen to knit their very first hat, it seemed. I promised to do so, but in my usual fashion of leaving things a tad late (not last minute exactly, but fairly close to the wire) I only sat down to start designing and knitting the hat earlier this week, with the first session being today. I completed the pattern in one sitting - which was immensely satisfying! There's nothing like a bit of pressure from a group of under 11s to keep you focussed! The children are all going to choose the colour of their hat from the shade card I am taking along with me today, so we won't be starting the project until next week, but I wanted them to see a sample knitted up, as I thought it would help them choose. 

Designing a hat for a beginner knitter is no mean task. Hats usually have quite a bit of shaping, which requires not only shaping techniques, but also precision in counting stitches. I could visualise a lot of queries, frogging, frustration and dropped stitches if I designed the crown in the way I would normally write it, with gradual decreases, spaced at even intervals along the row, with a precise number of straight rows in between each decrease and so on. So I decided that the hat would be knit straight right up until the last three rows, and the decreases would take place on the last two knit rows, so only one purl row to count in between. The decreases could therefore be quite sharp - the number of stitches is halved on each decrease row, which means that you repeat the SAME two stitch pattern across the entire row, apart from the first and last stitches. The first and last stitches are knitted, as these stitches will be incorporated into the seam, and it is hard to sew up a seam neatly if you are sewing into decreases. 

The second problem I pondered was the rib band. I wondered about not doing a rib band - we haven't done k1, p1 rib yet in the classes. But I decided to include it in the end, as it gives a much better finish to the hat, and I can teach it as part of the lessons this term. This means that the hats might be slow work to start with, but once they have got beyond the rib band, I think the rest will be a breeze. I have kept the rib band quite short, to minimise the frustration at the early stages, but you can make the rib band longer if you wish - just reduce the number of stocking stitch rows by the same amount. To make the rib band easier, I decided to include a knit row first. It is hard to rib into a cast on row as a beginner, particularly as the simple cast on method that I have taught them does have the downside of having a tricky first row. Again, just omit this, and do six rows of rib, if you are confident enough.

I also decided to write out a garter stitch version for those who haven't yet mastered the purl stitch.

The beanie had to be topped by a pom pom. They are all mad on making pom poms!

I hope you enjoy this pattern. If anyone uses it with their own kids or school knitting club, please let me know, and send me some photos! Many thanks.

Cast on 50 (54, 58) stitches. This will be the bottom of your beanie.
Knit one row (this is the right side of your work).
Work 5 rows in k1, p1 rib, as below:
Rib row: (K1, p1), repeat the stitch pattern in brackets until you get to the end of the row.
Work 20 (24, 28) rows in stocking stitch starting with a knit row. This is the right side of your work.

Shape the top of your hat (called the ‘crown’)
Row 1: K1, (skpo), repeat skpo until you get to the last stitch on your left hand needle, k1. Count your stitches - you should have 26 (28, 30) stitches left.
Row 2: Purl every stitch.
Row 3: Do the same as you did for row 1. This time you will have 14 (15, 16) stitches when you have finished the row.
Row 4: Purl every stitch.

Cut your yarn leaving a long thread. Thread the yarn onto a darning needle then run the yarn through all the stitches on your knitting needle. Pull the needle out, then pull the yarn tight to gather all the stitches together, and fasten tightly at one end with a knot. This is the top of your hat, and the place where you will sew your pompom onto later.

Making Up
Fold your work in half width ways. Sew up the seam down the side of the hat, preferably using mattress stitch. This stitch is done with the right sides facing you. If you prefer to sew the seam up using an overstitch, then turn the hat inside out to sew it up, then don’t forget to turn it the right way round to sew the pom pom on. 

Make a pom pom using your pom pom maker. Make sure it is really thick and fluffy and trim it to make it neat.

Garter Stitch version
If you can’t get the hang of the purl stitch or haven’t learnt it yet, you can knit the hat in garter stitch. Bear in mind that it will look very different!

Cast on 50 (54, 58) stitches. This will be the bottom of your beanie.
Knit until work measures 16 (18, 20) cm from the beginning. To measure your work, lay it out flat, and place the end of the tape measure under the needles.

Shape the top of your hat (called the ‘crown’)
Row 1: K1, (skpo), repeat skpo until you get to the last stitch on your left hand needle, k1. Count your stitches - you should have 30 stitches left.
Row 2: Knit every stitch.
Row 3: Do the same as you did for row 1. This time you will have 16 stitches when you have finished the row.
Row 4: Knit every stitch.

Cut your yarn leaving a long thread. Thread the yarn onto a darning needle then run the yarn through all the stitches on your knitting needle. Pull the needle out, then pull the yarn tight to gather all the stitches together, and fasten tightly at one end with a knot. This is the top of your hat, and the place where you will sew your pompom onto later.

Making Up
Make up as for the stocking stitch hat.

About six months ago, I met a friend for coffee. Not that I haven't met anyone for coffee since (!), but this particular meeting was significant because my friend turned up wearing the most beautiful silver necklace. Of course, I commented, and was quite astounded when she said she had made it herself. "But  - how on earth?" I gasped. Not that she isn't very clever with her hands and talented at making things, but I thought that making silver jewellery was a really specialised craft which involved years of training and lots of specialised equipment. Then she told me about Emma Mitchell, and silver clay, and my interest was piqued. I made a mental note to look Emma up when I got home, with the full intention of enrolling myself on one of her workshops. When I saw her website, with all the beautiful pictures of gorgeous silver charms, and read about silver clay, I decided to treat my three girls to a day out and endeavoured to book us all on to a workshop.

It proved quite difficult to find a workshop that we could all attend. My daughters are very busy! Emma kindly offered to create an extra workshop for us, as there were four of us, and we booked a date. Finally the day came, and we set off in excited anticipation. I don't have sat nav, so my eldest daughter did the map reading, and it was easy to find Emma's pretty village, nestled in the Cambridgeshire countryside. 

We had a very warm welcome, and stepping inside Emma's 18th century cottage felt like stepping into a parallel universe of vintage gorgeousness. We were all immediately entranced by the ambience, the oldy-worldy cottagey feel, the beautifully chosen furniture and inviting simple decor. Everything was unique and individual, but seemed to go together in perfect harmony. Best of all, Emma treated us like long lost friends and we immediately felt at ease. Cups of tea were handed round and introductions made, and then we entered the workshop space to begin our silver clay adventure.

Emma began by explaining in detail the science behind the craft, and then demonstrated how we would make the silver charms ourselves. Not having a scientific brain, I thought I may not grasp the details, but Emma explained it all so clearly that I can still remember it now! I won't spoil the surprise by telling you, in case you decide to go on a workshop yourself, but it really is fascinating and quite amazing how it works. One of the things Emma impressed upon us before we started was the need to plan your work before you unwrap the clay, as it dries out quite quickly once exposed to the air, so we set about making little drawings of the charms we intended to make. There was lots of scope, making imprints with leaves, using moulds, carving, cutting out with sugar cutters and so on, so it was quite difficult to decide what to do. I spent a few minutes staring at a blank piece of paper, before looking around and realising that my daughters were sketching furiously, with some quite ingenious ideas, including a Harry Potter symbol. I confess to being a Harry Potter ignoramus, so the symbolism was lost on me, but thankfully Emma understood and was able to help the girls realise their idea!

Once we had carved, moulded, imprinted, and cut our charms out of the clay, it was time for a coffee break and some homemade cake while they cooked in the oven. Emma is clearly a talented baker as well as a jeweller, and it was very tempting to have a second piece, when invited! We had lots to talk about over coffee - Emma is an avid crocheter, and there were baskets of yarn and crochet bits and pieces around the room. Emma showed a genuine interest in the girls, and they responded, chatting away about themselves and their hobbies. They clearly felt at ease, and whilst in quiet awe of Emma and her beautiful home, were not intimidated in the slightest, but rather quickly became Emma Mitchell fans! I think '18th century cottage' has become top of the wish list for our next home!

The second half of the workshop was even more exciting than the first, as we watched our clay charms transformed into beautiful silver from firing and polishing.  WOW! It was incredible! Emma said that one of her workshop participants had been so moved by this process that they had cried. My eyes were dry, but my heart missed a beat as the silver was revealed. We learnt how to finish the pieces, polishing and refining the silver to get the finish we wanted. I think we could have stayed there all afternoon, polishing and admiring and choosing gemstones to go with our charms, but eventually we tore ourselves away from Emma's other-worldly home and from the concentrated and satisfying effort of creating our own little individual masterpieces, and re-entered the world outside. The verdict? We all agreed, it was the best day out we could remember. As we drove home, I reflected on the value of experiences over 'things' and vowed to plan to spend less money on accumulating 'stuff' so we would have more to spend on experiences like this one. The bonus was that not only did we have a lovely experience, we learnt a new skill AND we came home with a collection of beautiful treasures that we had made ourselves and could be proud of, that will stand the test of time, and possibly even be handed down to the next generation perhaps. Its hard to think of a better gift than that.